Surfing scientist talks about riding waves in South Florida

Bob Taylor in Fort Pierce, summer 2012 (photos  provided)

The soft-spoken scientist at the South Florida Water Management District has distinct ideas about how he wants to spend his spare time -- either walking on water or on land.

To Bob Taylor, environmental engineer, walking on water means surfing.

"Surfing can be a wonderful way to relax and de-stress," he says. "You are very focused on the wave; you are not worrying about other life problems."

That sounds like the main reason I like yoga. When I focus on my breathing, I forget about my worries.


Here is the second part of my interview with Taylor, the first part can be found here.

What does it feel like to surf?

On those little (small waves) days, it's just fun to ride the wave and scoot along on the water. You can mess around and have fun trying different maneuvers and boards.  

On larger days, it's more of a mental process. There is a certain amount of muscle memory. With large waves you need to focus on the wave and where the board needs to be. The correct placement of the surfboard rail and angle on the wave will affect the speed and ability to make it around sections. The key is to keep your mind clear; if you become concerned that you will fall, more than likely you will. 

I like to go for long fast rides with a few power turns mixed in. For me, its about getting the board perfectly planted to achieve the maximum speed in coordination with the wave. Surfing can be  a wonderful way to relax and de-stress. You are very focused on the wave; therefore you are not worrying about other life problems. However, on larger days, done correctly, it can be a big rush of excitement! 

How have board designs changed over time?

I started surfing in the early '70s, during the era when surfing was changing from longboards to shortboards. Boards, from then to now, have become more refined. These refinements include lighter material, better fin design and placement. One very nice improvement has been the leash to tether the board to your leg.

Today's generation like a lighter weight board made from epoxy resin. Most older surfers, like myself, have stayed with the traditional polyester resin boards.

I commonly used six different surf boards: 10.2 classic longboard, 9.6 longboard, 9.0 longboard, 7.6 fun shape, 7.0 single fin thruster and 6.10 fish. Riding multiple boards is a good way to keep surfing interesting. Each board paddles and rides differently, which causes the rider to adapt to the waves. It keeps me from getting bored and requires the use of different muscle groups.  

What differences do you see between yourself and younger surfers?

The younger surfer today is typically more explosive, going for the bigger maneuvers than my generation. They ride very small boards, and they are aggressive on the waves. The very best of the younger surfers have pushed the envelope of surfing from big wave riding to massive maneuvers where they use the wave as a ramp and can become air borne. This new style of surfing has some similarity to snowboarding with the “big air.” When done correctly, it is an impressive style. 

All I can say is the new generation has expanded the limits of the sport. Surfing is a great sport where you can have several different generations all enjoying the ocean.  

While the generational surfing styles are very different, it is still obvious to everyone in the water or on the beach when a surfer no matter the age gets a good ride. It's also pretty cool when some young kid paddles over and says great ride! It's nice to share the experience with others.

What's your favorite surfer movie?

It would have to be The Endless Summer. (Here's a clip of the movie, often described as the seminal surf movie where if one had enough time and money, it would be possible to follow the summer around the globe,)

Ever participate in surfing competitions?

During high school, I won many local and regional surf contests. I was a highly ranked amateur and participated in the Eastern Surfing Association championship twice in the Junior Men Division. I also participated in college surf contests on the Florida Institute of Technology (Florida Tech) Surf Team. During this period, I surfed again in many local and regional contests. 

While on the Florida Tech team I qualified for the National Scholastic Surfing Association championship in Huntington Beach, Calif.during 1978-79. I have also participated in several pro am invitational events. 

Christian, Bob and Zach Taylor riding horses in Costa Rica in May.

Did you teach your sons to surf?

My older son, Christian, surfs with me a lot. My younger son, Zachary, is a talented piano player without the greatest interest in surfing. 

Yes, I started both boys surfing when they were very young. 

During 2012, the three of us guys went on a surf trip to Costa Rica. We were able to mix up some other activities that made it interesting for everyone because Zach is not a big surfer. Ziplining, hiking and site seeing. It was a great experience for all! 

(His wife Jeanne is an energetic youth services librarian with the Mandel Public Library in West Palm Beach. I wrote about her when I worked for The Palm Beach Post because she loves to walk. Go here to read the post about Jeanne Taylor. She tweets under the Twitter handle: LittlePig1.)

Anything else?

I would like to mention the importance of using the correct sunscreen and rash guard with solar UVA/UVB protection. The choice and proper use of a sunscreen can affect the odds of getting skin cancer.

I use only sunscreens that contain zinc or titanium mineral oxides with large particles, which I prefer over micro-particle products. These products are more inert than products that contain complex processed chemicals that can enter your skin. The Environmental Working Group recommends avoiding products that contain oxybenzone or vitamin A (retinyl palmitate). Also, products that mix sunscreen and insect repellent may pose a higher risk.

For surfing and other water sports, it's important to use a product that can stay in place for a long time. I use an all-natural product, Badger Sport Sunscreen, a large-particle zinc mineral base product. It is very thick but works great.

Going to yoga? Bring a can

Famed yoga teacher Priyanka Shanbag is collecting non-perishable items at her Tuesday evening and Saturday morning yoga classes at the Mandel Public Library. The items will go to the Extended Hands Community Outreach food program in West Palm Beach. Items will be collected until the end of January.

And now, for my numbers:

I had my best walking day last week on Saturday, Dec. 8, 2012, when I walked:

Steps: 11,036

Miles: 5.5